With over 40 miles of stunning coastline, 30 spectacular castles, 22 golf courses, and some of the best seafood (and whisky) in Scotland, East Lothian might sit on Edinburgh’s doorstep – but it really is a destination in its own right.
Known as “Edinburgh’s coast and countryside,” East Lothian stretches from the village of Musselburgh in the west to Dunbar in the east, taking in the gloriously pretty seaside town of North Berwick, the rolling Lammermuir Hills, and an incredible string of golden beaches. It’s the easiest big day out from Edinburgh, but stay a few nights and you’ll find yourself wishing you had longer.
This guide covers 18 of the best things to do in East Lothian, plus where to eat, where to stay, and how to get there.
At a glance
- Where: Scotland’s east coast, immediately east of Edinburgh
- Distance from Edinburgh: 30 minutes by train to North Berwick; 25 minutes by car to most coastal towns
- Best for: beach walks, family days out, castle hunters, seafood lovers, golfers, wildlife watchers
- How long to visit: a perfect Edinburgh day trip, or 2–4 nights for a proper coastal break
- Best time to visit: May–September for the beaches and seabirds; autumn for the Lammermuirs
The 18 best things to do in East Lothian
1. Walk the John Muir Way
The 134-mile John Muir Way is Scotland’s coast-to-coast long-distance walk, named after the East Lothian-born Scottish-American conservationist who fathered the modern national park. The route runs from Helensburgh on the Clyde to Dunbar on the east coast, with East Lothian’s 40-mile section the headline act.
The most beautiful stretch passes through Aberlady, Gullane and North Berwick on a coastal path lined with golden beaches, rocky outcrops and wide views to Bass Rock. The North Berwick to Dunbar leg (25km, around 5 hours) is harder but ends on a high, literally, with spectacular clifftop views.
You can find out more about Muir himself at his birthplace in Dunbar, now a free museum.
2. Spend a day at North Berwick
North Berwick is one of Scotland’s loveliest seaside towns and the perfect Edinburgh day trip – direct trains run every half hour and take just 30 minutes. Once a stylish Victorian holiday resort known as the “Biarritz of the North,” it has held onto its charm: Quality Street’s independent shops, Alandas Gelato (the queue is worth it), the historic harbour, two glorious beaches, and views to the Bass Rock that never get old.
Book your train tickets with trainline.com.
The town has two beaches – the huge sweep of West Beach, or the family-friendly East (or Milsey) Bay with its boat pond and views straight to Bass Rock.
Read more in my things to do in North Berwick guide.
3. Climb North Berwick Law
The 187-metre volcanic plug of North Berwick Law dominates the town and the East Lothian skyline for miles around. The walk to the summit takes 20–30 minutes from the car park at the base, with some scrambly bits, but the 360° views are fabulous – Edinburgh Castle and the Forth Bridge to the west, the Bass Rock and Tantallon Castle to the east, and the rolling hills of the Lammermuirs behind you.
At the top you’ll find a replica whale’s jawbone marking North Berwick’s seafaring past, and the ruins of a Napoleonic-era look-out shelter.
4. Take a boat trip to Bass Rock
The volcanic plug of Bass Rock, just off the North Berwick coast, is home to the world’s largest Northern gannet colony with over 150,000 birds at peak season, turning the rock white. Boat trips run from North Berwick harbour throughout the year, ranging from quick zooms around the rock to longer landing trips on the Isle of May.
Book direct with Sula Boat Trips, the Scottish Seabird Centre, or Blue Wild.
You’ll also spot puffins (April–early August), guillemots, razorbills, shags, kittiwakes, fulmars, and frequently grey seals and bottlenose dolphins. Easily one of the best wildlife experiences within an hour of Edinburgh.
5. Visit the Scottish Seabird Centre
The Scottish Seabird Centre at North Berwick harbour is a five-star award-winning attraction with 14 live cameras streaming from Bass Rock, Craigleith, Fidra, the Isle of May and Dunbar Harbour. Inside there are interactive exhibits on gannets, puffins, guillemots and seals; outside there’s a great café and unbeatable views.
A brilliant rainy-day option and properly engaging for kids. Adult tickets around £10, family tickets available.
6. Lobster and chips at the harbour
For a serious seafood treat, head to North Berwick Harbour and order from The Lobster Shack – fresh North Berwick lobster, hand-cut chips and (if you’re feeling fancy) a glass of champagne. Sit on the harbour wall and dig in. If The Lobster Shack is closed, The Rocketeer does an excellent takeaway and lends out blankets so you can sit on the lawn.
It’s seafood at its absolute simplest and absolutely the best £20 you’ll spend in East Lothian.
7. Explore Tantallon Castle
Towering over the North Sea on a cliff edge, Tantallon Castle is one of Scotland’s most spectacularly sited ruins. Built in the mid-14th century by the powerful Red Douglas dynasty and famously destroyed by Cromwell’s troops in 1651, it was once the most formidable fortress in southern Scotland. Today you can climb the surviving towers for sweeping views to Bass Rock and descend into a particularly grim pit prison.
The best view of Tantallon itself is actually from the road to Seacliff Beach: take the turn on the bend at Auldhame and drive towards the coast for one of the most photographed views in East Lothian.
Read more about my visit to Tantallon Castle.
8. Visit Dirleton Castle and the world’s longest herbaceous border
Dirleton Castle is the most intact medieval castle in East Lothian, sitting at the heart of the picture-perfect village of Dirleton. The 13th-century fortress has its own pit prison and dungeons, but the real surprise is the gardens — including what’s officially recognised as the world’s longest herbaceous border, planted by the Nisbet family in the 19th century. In high summer it’s a riot of colour.
Allow 1–2 hours and combine it with lunch at the Castle Inn opposite or coffee at the village shop.
9. Find the hidden Hailes Castle
If Tantallon and Dirleton are East Lothian’s well-known castles, Hailes Castle is the one most visitors miss. Tucked beside the River Tyne near East Linton, this 13th-century fortress has rich connections to Mary Queen of Scots – she stayed here with Bothwell in 1567 just before her abduction. It’s free to enter, almost always empty, and the riverside setting is genuinely magical.
10. Discover Outlander filming locations
East Lothian has multiple Outlander connections. The most famous is Preston Mill & Phantassie Doocot near East Linton, which appeared as Lallybroch’s mill in Season 1 (Jamie’s “Mr Darcy” swimming scene). Managed by the National Trust for Scotland, the 18th-century Dutch-style watermill is a working museum.
Seacliff Beach has also been used for several Outlander scenes and was a key location in Mary Queen of Scots (2018). The Battle of Prestonpans (Season 2) took place in East Lothian; though not filmed on location, the 1745 Heritage Trust stages annual battle reenactments every September.
11. Look for fairies at Archerfield Walled Garden
The Archerfield Walled Garden sits between Gullane and Dirleton on the Archerfield Estate. Inside the walls you’ll find a café, farm shop, kids’ play area and a regular street food market, but the real draw is the Archerfield Fairy Trail, a collection of fairy houses hidden through the woods. It’s an absolute hit with kids.
The estate itself includes a luxury hotel, spa and links golf course if you want to upgrade your day.
12. Visit Aberlady Bay – Britain’s oldest nature reserve
The sand dunes, mudflats and salt marshes of Aberlady Bay were designated Britain’s first local nature reserve in 1952. The reserve is home to over 550 plant species, year-round wading birds, and in winter up to 30,000 pink-footed geese, whose dawn flights from the bay are one of Scotland’s great wildlife spectacles.
Extensive paths lead through the reserve to the beach. At low tide, look for the rusting remains of two midget submarines used for target practice during the Second World War. Free, dog-friendly (on leads).
13. Find Scotland’s Concorde at the National Museum of Flight
The National Museum of Flight at East Fortune houses over 40 military and civil aircraft in historic RAF hangars. The headline exhibit is Concorde G-BOAA, Scotland’s only Concorde, but you can also walk through a Boeing 707 and see a Vulcan bomber, a Comet, and a host of military jets.
The annual airshow each July is one of Scotland’s biggest aviation events. Adult tickets around £15; family tickets around £35; free for National Museums Scotland members.
14. Tour Glenkinchie – Edinburgh’s home distillery
Glenkinchie at Pencaitland is one of just three remaining Lowland whisky distilleries and known as “the Edinburgh malt.” Its light, soft taste comes from water from the nearby Lammermuir Hills. Now a key component of Johnnie Walker, it’s been beautifully refurbished as part of Diageo’s “Four Corners” experience, interactive, well-paced, and a great introduction to whisky for beginners.
Tours start from around £20 and book up well in advance in summer.
15. Choose your favourite East Lothian beach
Everyone falls in love with East Lothian’s beaches — they’re genuinely some of the best in Britain. My favourites:
- Seacliff — tiny private harbour (the smallest in the UK), looming Tantallon Castle, and Hollywood-quality scenery (£4 to park)
- Tyninghame — sweeping pink sands, Bass Rock views, and surfers
- Yellowcraigs — Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island inspiration, with views to Fidra Lighthouse
- Belhaven Bay — home to the famous “bridge to nowhere” that becomes a Victorian footbridge stranded in the surf at high tide
- Gullane Bents — broad, dune-backed sands; horse riding available on the beach
16. Hike in the Lammermuir Hills
Inland from the coast, the Lammermuir Hills are East Lothian’s quiet other half – gentle, heather-clad, and almost empty even in summer. The classic walk is up Lammer Law and around Hopes Reservoir, a 7-mile loop with views north to North Berwick Law, Bass Rock, and across to Edinburgh.
The best time to visit is the start of autumn, when the heather turns purple and the light falls perfectly across the rolling hills.
17. Meet the alpacas (and the Dunbear)
Just outside Dunbar, John Muir Alpacas runs alpaca trekking sessions through pine woodland — an unexpectedly delightful hour or two and a guaranteed family hit.
While you’re nearby, swing past The Dunbear, a 5-metre-high steel sculpture of a brown bear standing on its hind legs, created as a tribute to John Muir. Its setting next to a supermarket is a bit underwhelming, but it’s worth a quick photo stop.
18. Family day at East Links Family Park
East Links just outside Dunbar is one of East Lothian’s best kept secrets for families with younger kids – a working farm with a narrow-gauge railway, indoor and outdoor play areas, animal feeding, crazy golf, and pedal go-karts. Open weekends in winter, daily in summer. Easily a full day with under-10s.
East Lothian’s stately homes and gardens
Stately home fans are spoilt for choice in East Lothian. Tours of Lennoxlove, seat of the Duke of Hamilton, run in summer (around £8); Gosford House opens for select weekends each summer; and Inveresk Lodge Garden and Newhailes are both run by the National Trust for Scotland. Hopetoun Monument, a tower on Byres Hill near Haddington, is free to climb (132 steps, take a torch) and offers some of the best 360° views in the region.
Where to eat in East Lothian
East Lothian punches well above its weight for food – particularly seafood, with most of it landing within 20 miles of the kitchens that cook it.
North Berwick
- The Lobster Shack — harbour-side seafood institution. Lobster, chips, champagne, sea views.
- The Rocketeer — relaxed sit-down or takeaway with great fish.
- Steampunk — cult coffee roastery with a brilliant café.
- Bostock Bakery — properly good sourdough and pastries.
- Alandas Gelato — the best ice cream in town. Quality Street, expect a queue.
- Nether Abbey Hotel — solid, affordable bistro food in a friendly setting.
Dunbar
- Hector’s — artisan pizzeria with excellent vegan options.
- Wishing Tree by the Sea — photogenic café in Lauderdale Park; the cakes are extraordinary.
- Brig & Barrel — popular gastropub near Belhaven Brewery.
- Belhaven Brewery — Scotland’s oldest working brewery (since 1719); brewery tours and tastings available.
Whitekirk and beyond
- Whitekirk Hill — the Orangery & Walled Terrace café and bistro is excellent and a destination in its own right (see accommodation below).
- The Castle Inn, Dirleton — village pub right opposite Dirleton Castle. Solid Scottish pub food.
Hidden gem
Drift Cafe – The cliff-edge shipping container café opposite Bass Rock (between Dunbar and North Berwick) has arguably the best view of any café in Scotland. Worth seeking out.
Where to stay in East Lothian
Whitekirk Hill – best for stylish self-catering
Whitekirk Hill is a smart eco-lodge village between North Berwick and Dunbar, with a leisure club, luxury spa, children’s play barn, and the excellent Orangery & Walled Terrace café. The lodges are properly stylish and most have hot tubs.
- Book The Weir (1 bed, 2-person hot tub)
- Book The Telfer (2 bed)
- Book The Irvine (3 bed, family hot tub)
- Book The Laidlaw (sleeps up to 10)
The Leddie, Aberlady – best for boutique luxury
The standout new opening on East Lothian’s hotel scene, The Leddie is a beautifully restored 27-bedroom boutique hotel in the heart of Aberlady.
Originally built in 1638 (and known to locals as “The Duck’s Inn” until its recent transformation), it has reopened as one of Scotland’s most exciting new stays – recommended in The Times’ Top 100 Places to Stay in the UK, awarded an AA Rosette for its restaurant, and named East Lothian Hotel of the Year. There’s also a sociable cocktail bar, a south-facing garden terrace and a properly dog-friendly lounge.
Greywalls Hotel – best for luxury
A Sir Edwin Lutyens-designed Edwardian country house overlooking Muirfield, Greywalls is one of Scotland’s most beautiful country house hotels – gardens by Gertrude Jekyll, a Michelin-starred-quality kitchen, and a roll call of golf-mad past guests.
Marine North Berwick – best for the seaside
The Marine is North Berwick’s grand Victorian seafront hotel, recently refurbished. Big bay-windowed rooms, a pool and spa, and walking distance to everything in the town.
The Open Arms, Dirleton – best for village charm
A traditional family-run hotel facing Dirleton Castle and village green. The Open Arms does a brilliant restaurant and the rooms are warm and welcoming.
Getting to East Lothian
By train
The North Berwick line runs every half hour from Edinburgh Waverley, taking 30 minutes. Other key stations: Drem, Longniddry, Prestonpans, Wallyford, and Dunbar (on the East Coast Main Line, also direct from London Kings Cross).
By car
Take the A1 east from Edinburgh. For the scenic route, turn off at Longniddry and follow the coastal road through Aberlady, Gullane and Dirleton to North Berwick. Return via Tantallon Castle, Tyninghame and the A1.
By bus
Lothian Country runs the X5/X7 service from Edinburgh to North Berwick, Haddington and Dunbar. Slower than the train but often cheaper.
When to visit East Lothian
- Spring (April–May): lambs in the fields, ospreys returning, fewer crowds. A great quiet-season choice.
- Summer (June–August): beach weather, festivals, longest days. Book accommodation well in advance — North Berwick fills up fast.
- Autumn (September–October): purple heather in the Lammermuirs, autumn colours, pink-footed geese arriving at Aberlady Bay.
- Winter (November–March): dramatic skies, empty beaches, atmospheric castle visits. Pack waterproofs.
East Lothian: frequently asked questions
Is East Lothian worth visiting?
Absolutely. It’s the easiest day trip from Edinburgh and offers everything from world-class beaches and castles to brilliant seafood, family attractions and proper hill walking — all within an hour of the city centre.
Can you visit East Lothian without a car?
Yes — North Berwick is just 30 minutes by train from Edinburgh and has plenty to fill a day or weekend on foot. Dunbar is also on the train line. For Tantallon, Dirleton and Seacliff, you’ll need to take the 120 bus or a taxi from North Berwick.
What's the best beach in East Lothian?
It depends what you want. Seacliff is the most photogenic; Yellowcraigs is the best for families and Treasure Island fans; Tyninghame is the best for big walks and surfers; Belhaven Bay is the most quirky (the bridge to nowhere); Gullane Bents is the best for horse riding.
Is East Lothian good for kids?
Yes — East Links Family Park, the Archerfield Fairy Trail, the Scottish Seabird Centre, John Muir Alpacas, and the National Museum of Flight are all family hits. Add the beaches and there’s easily enough for a 3-day family trip.
How long do you need in East Lothian?
A day trip will give you a taste — typically North Berwick, the Seabird Centre and Tantallon Castle. Two or three nights lets you explore properly: a beach day, a castle day, and a hills or distillery day. A week makes it a brilliant base for the whole of southeast Scotland.
What's the best part of East Lothian to stay in?
North Berwick for the seaside town vibe; Whitekirk for stylish self-catering between the main attractions; Dirleton for picture-perfect village charm; and Dunbar for the eastern end of the coast and the John Muir connection.
Love from Scotland x
