The East Neuk of Fife is the stretch of coast from Elie in the south up to Crail in the north. Scots for “east corner”, it’s a series of small fishing villages with working harbours, pantiled cottages and independent shops. The area was once the heart of Scotland’s east coast fishing trade, and the tiny harbours still land lobster and crab today.
I live on the Fife coast and the East Neuk is the part I visit most often. This is my guide to the villages, harbours and best things to do, from Kingsbarns and Crail in the east to Elie and Lower Largo in the south.
Explore Kingsbarns and the Cambo Estate
On the north coast of the East Neuk of Fife is Kingsbarns and the Cambo Estate. Owned by the Erskine family, the lovely Cambo Estate has a stunning walled garden, filled with instagrammable cherry blossoms, snowdrop filled woodland walks, its own wild and remote beach and views out to sea over the famous Kingsbarns Golf Links, home to the European Tour.
Explore the Estate’s extensive gardens (£5 per adult), stop by the new estate visitor centre and then stay for lunch in the quirky and dog-friendly Nosebag Cafe (it’s in the old stable block!) for a Scottish comfort food inspired menu made with ingredients harvested on the Cambo Estate – make sure you try their soup (their wild garlic and mushroom soup is delicious!) and incredibly moreish cakes. You can even stay on the Estate – check out the Camboat!
Walk down through the Cambo Estate to the coast and you will find Kingsbarn’s beach, one of my favourite beaches in Scotland.
Visit the gorgeous harbour at Crail
The furthest east of all the East Neuk villages might be a challenge to get to, but it’s worth the effort. From the beautiful high street (with some of the quirkiest and beautifully restored cottages you’ll see) pop into the Crail Pottery and then follow the winding coastal path down to the pretty harbour.
Crail has something of a foodie reputation, with the Crail Food Festival taking place every June. Outside of the festival, a seafood shack ‘The Lobster Hut’ on the harbour side serves up crab rolls and plates of lobster. Bring the champagne, the salads, and grab a bench for a complete feast.
After lunch, climb up the harbour wall, and while away the afternoon in the sunshine. If you fancy a drink after lunch, the Golf Hotel on the high street is friendly and quaint.
Have fish & chips at Anstruther
The East Neuk’s capital, Anstruther (pronounced Anster) is a bustling harbour town, whose population of 3600 is swelled by hungry day- trippers heading for the Anstruther Fish Bar.
Sitting on a bench, with a fresh portion of crispy fish and hot chips is one of life’s little pleasures, and Anstruther is one of the best places to grab a bench and watch the boats go by.
Prefer a proper meal? Try the Dreel Tavern (their haggis scotch eggs are amazing) or The Cellar for a michelin starred meal.
From the harbour, you can take a trip on the May Princess to the Isle of May, a National Nature Reserve and home to the UK’s largest puffin colony and lots of grey seals. The boat trip will take you around 4-5 hours and includes 2-3 hours to explore the island.
Adrenaline junkies can also take a RIB to the Isle of May for an exhilarating boat trip around the island. Anstruther also boasts Scotland’s Fishery Museum, with 18 boats on display, one of which, Reaper, was used in the hit TV series Outlander.
From Anstruther you can walk the Fife Coastal Path to Crail, passing through Cellerdyke with its tiny 16th century harbour – which is also known as Skinfast Haven once home to more than 50 herring boats.
The path passes the- The Coves, or the caves of Caiplie – used as an early site of christian worship and a doocot! The return walk from Anstruther to Crail is around 10 miles.
Visit the welly garden at St Monans
Next along the coast is St Monans, probably the quirkiest of all the East Neuk villages and named after Saint Monan – who was martyred on the Isle of May out in the Forth and set up a chapel in the East Neuk. There is a shrine erected to St Monan in the striking church on the waterfront.
St Monans has an unusual wiggly harbour – the star of many an instagram shot – yo can find it by climbing up the harbour wall. There is also a welly boot garden on St Monans slipway, started by local teacher, Win Brown, the welly boot garden now contains lots colourful boots – winning St Monans a few awards.
Walking the Fife Coastal Path towards Pittenweem you will pass the St Monans windmill – a relic 1770s of the salt panning industry which once dotted the coast. Further along, the coastal path passes the ruined and slightly spooky Newark Castle.
For lunch try the fantastic seafood at East Pier Smokehouse or sandwiches, coffee and cake at the Diving Gannet.
Watch the fishing boats at Pittenweem
Pittenweem’s picturesque harbour is stuffed full of working fishing boats and is lined with pantiled cottages – influenced by trade with the Netherlands.
The name ‘Pittenweem’ means place of the caves – Pett means place, enweem means caves. Pittenweem is home to the tiny St Fillan’s Cave – home to the Irish missionary in the 7th century.
The busiest of all the fishing ports, you can see the Pittenweem fishmarket working each morning – there might be lobsters, herring or langoustines on offer.
In August, the fabulos Pittenweem Arts Festival takes the small town, with over 100 artists displaying their works in galleries and in their own homes, sheds and garages.
If you are visiting Pittenweem you must visit the Pittenweem Chocolate Company and coffee shop – heaven for chocolate fans! The West End Bar at the top of the town is a friendly pub which serves up great food and occasionallt has live music.
Head to the beach at Elie and Earlsferry
The seaside villages of the East Neuk of Fife must be some of Scotland’s prettiest and Elie & Earlsferry, is a quintessential Scottish seaside village and is a popular holiday destination for Scots; how about renting an idyllic cottage with that sea view?
Beyond beach games and rock pool hunting, the village is served by the Ship Inn, which serves gorgeous seafood on beach side benches, from which you can watch Elie’s beach cricket matches. Fancy staying in a hotel in the East Neuk? The Ship Inn* also has six rooms if you want to stay a little longer.
From Elie walk the Fife Coastal Path to St Monans, passing Ruby Bay, named after the garnets that were once mined there (keep an eye out, you might find a fortune!) the Elie Lighthouse and the quirky Ladies Tower at Sauchar Point, a changing room built for Lady Anstruther in the 1700s so she could bathe in the Forth. The tower has fab views over the Forth.
Feeling a little more adventurous? Nearby is the Elie Chain Walk – a series of chains fixed along the coast between Shell Bay and West Bay near Elie which you use to climb, scramble and coasteer along the Fife cliffs – kind of like a Scottish Via Ferrata!
If you love to wild swim, then Elie is a perfect place for a dip – you can also book the Elie Seaside Sauna – which is located on the harbour beach and is heated by a wood burnng stove.
Read More: Elie & Earlsferry
Explore East Neuk History at Lower Largo
If Lower Largo were in Cornwall there would be traffic jams everyday winding their ways through the tiny streets. Thankfully, Lower Largo is one of Scotland’s hidden gems.
Probably the least well known of the East Neuk villages, it is synonymous with Robinson Crusoe, being the birthplace of Alexander Selkirk in 1676 who went on to provide the inspiration for the Daniel Defoe character. There is a statue of the famous castaway in the village.
Lower Largo once had a thriving railway and the Railway Inn serves real ale. Across the road, the Crusoe Hotel serves up great food and has rooms with views over the water.
More things to do in the East Neuk of Fife
- Foodies will love Bowhouse Market which holds monthly food and craft markets, with live music.
- If you are an animal fan then visit the Fife Alpaca Farm – why not take one of these super cute creatures out for a walk.
- Catch the train to busy Kirkcaldy and follow the coastal path to Dysart with its hidden gem of a harbour. Stop for a coffee at the Fife Coastal Path centre at the Harbourmaster House before wandering on to West Wemyss, and then returning back to Kirkcaldy. Book your train tickets with trainline.com*.
- Like Gin & Whisky? Kingsbarns Distillery has tours.
How to get to the East Neuk of Fife
It might be a bit of a challenge to get here – the closest train stations are Cupar or St Andrews or it’s a long and winding road from the Forth Bridges – but it is well worth the effort.
Getting to the East Neuk by Public Transport
- From Edinburgh catch bus no. X60 in the direction from St Andrews. The bus will drop you at Elie, St Monans, Pittenweem, and Anstruther.
- From St Andrews catch the no 95 bus which will take you to Crail, Cellardyke, Anstruther, Pittenweem, St Monans and on to Leven.
- Driving – Anstruther is around 1.5 hours drive from Edinburgh.
- Hike the Fife Coastal Path – Scotland’s longest coastal path, the Fife Coastal Path, tales you from the Firth of Forth to the Firth of Clyde. Exploring the villages of the East Neuk is one of the best coastal walks in Scotland.
Where to stay in the East Neuk of Fife
- Dreel Cottage, Anstruther – fancy staying in your own East Neuk cottage? Dreel Cottage is in Anstruther and has two double bedrooms, a garden and its own parking space.
- Catchpenny Safari Lodges.– Sleeping up to six in three bedrooms (a double, a twin and a rather cute cabin bed) and decorated in a ‘safari meets luxury Scotland ‘style.
- Elderburn Lodges – luxury self catering cottages with hot tubs near St Andrews
- The Fairmont St Andrews – a luxury hotel near St Andrews
- Newhill Farm Cottages – accommodation for fourteen across three self-catering cottages
FAQs
What is the East Neuk of Fife?
The East Neuk — meaning ‘eastern corner’ — is a stretch of beautiful fishing villages along the Fife coast, running from Elie and Earlsferry in the west to Crail and Kingsbarns in the east. The villages of Anstruther, Pittenweem, St Monans and Crail all have working harbours still landing lobster and crab, and the area is known for outstanding seafood, pretty harbours, puffins on the Isle of May, and some of Scotland’s best beaches.
How do you get to the East Neuk of Fife?
From Edinburgh, take bus X60 towards St Andrews — it stops at Elie, St Monans, Pittenweem and Anstruther. From St Andrews, the number 95 bus runs to Crail, Anstruther, Pittenweem, St Monans and Leven. By car, Anstruther is around 1.5 hours from Edinburgh. You can also walk between the villages along the Fife Coastal Path.
What is the best village to visit in the East Neuk of Fife?
Each village has its own character. Anstruther is the East Neuk’s bustling capital with the famous Anstruther Fish Bar, the Scottish Fisheries Museum and ferry trips to the Isle of May to see puffins. Crail is the prettiest and most photographed, with a beautiful harbour and The Lobster Hut seafood shack. Pittenweem has the busiest working fishing port. Elie has the best beach and the famous beach cricket at the Ship Inn.
Where can I see puffins in the East Neuk of Fife?
Puffins can be seen on the Isle of May, a National Nature Reserve in the Firth of Forth. Boat trips depart from Anstruther harbour — the May Princess takes around 4–5 hours including 2–3 hours on the island. A RIB trip is also available for a faster, more exhilarating trip around the island. Puffins are present from April to July.
What is the best place to eat in the East Neuk of Fife?
The Anstruther Fish Bar is a legendary fish and chip shop and one of the best in Scotland. The Lobster Hut at Crail harbour serves crab rolls and fresh lobster. The East Pier Smokehouse at St Monans is excellent for seafood. For a Michelin-starred meal, The Cellar in Anstruther is outstanding. The Ship Inn at Elie serves seafood on beach-side benches with views of the bay.
What is Robinson Crusoe's connection to the East Neuk of Fife?
Lower Largo, one of the East Neuk villages, is the birthplace of Alexander Selkirk (born 1676), the real-life castaway whose story inspired Daniel Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe. There is a statue of Selkirk in the village. Lower Largo is one of the least-visited and most charming of all the East Neuk villages.
The East Neuk is so beautiful, I’m moving in, are you?
Kate – Love from Scotland x
