Isle of Islay Scotland travel guide – things to do & tips

Port Ellen and the Mull of Oa

(‘Porth-eilan’ and ‘Mull of o’)

Islay’s south-west corner is the island’s most dramatic.

Head to the village of Port Ellen and then drive out on the remote Mull of Oa where you can walk to the American Monument along the Oa cliffs. look for sea eagles soaring overhead and wild goats and highland cows ambling across the path.

The Oa monument, built to commemorate two shipwrecks on Islay in 1918, can be seen right across the island and the story of those lost on the Tuscania and the HMS Otranto is truly humbling.

Back at Port Ellen, the entrance to the harbour is guarded by the lighthouse at Carraig Fhada built in memory of Lady Eleanor Campbell, wife of the founder of the village.

Take a walk out to the lighthouse and round the cliffs to Singing Sands, keeping an eye out for dolphins in the bay! 

It is worth driving out past the Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg distilleries, Kildalton church has a spectacular ancient cross.

The Rhinns of Islay and Portnahaven

The Rhinns of Islay sit to the islands northwest and the promontory stretches the length of Loch Indaal to the famously pretty villages of Portnahaven and Port Wemyss.

The Rhinns is a special protection area and the RSPB have hides at Loch Gruinart; in winter Islay is home to far more Barnacle Geese than people…

My favourite walk on Islay is the coastal path between Portnahaven and Port Wemyss for beautiful views of the Rinns of Islay lighthouse on the island of Orsay and nosy grey seals popping out of the water in the bay.

Islay’s best beach is arguably Machir Bay – a sweep of perfect sand, dramatic cliffs and crashing waves backed by huge dunes, it is well worth the drive to get to.

Machir Bay is close to Islay Cottages accommodation at Kilchoman.

Port Askaig and Ardnave Point

Port Askaig sits on the island’s stunning east coast and serves the ferry to the mainland and across to the Isle of Jura.

From the Bunnahabhain distillery walk out towards Rhuvval Lighthouse which sits on the Island’s most northerly point and watch the storms roll in across the sea from the Isle of Mull.

Keep an eye open for the Bunnahabhain Otters, made famous by BBC’s WinterWatch.   

Bowmore

Bowmore is the Island’s capital, and is a bustling little town with pubs and restaurants, a supermarket where the whole of Islay seems to meet, a pharmacy, a swimming pool, the Bowmore distillery and a Peatzeria!

Bowmore’s central location is a great base for exploring the island – most villages, beaches and distilleries are no more than 30 minutes drive.

Bowmore’s main street is dominated by the Kilarrow Parish Church, otherwise known as the ‘Round Church’ built along with the rest of the planned Bowmore ‘new town’ in 1776.

It’s said that the church is round so that there are no corners for the devil to hide… personally, I believe that the devil would have more fun in one of the distilleries!

Whisky on Islay

There are 9 whisky distilleries on Islay with at least another 3 on their way.

You will need plenty of time to get around them all – and enjoy the fantastic hospitality and tours they offer. Whisky is about more than alcohol – in Scotland, it is the water of life.

However, in Scotland the drink drive limit is basically zero so you will need a designated driver – thankfully the distilleries now allow the driver to take their drams away.

The south coast of the Isle of Islay by Port Ellen is dominated by three of the Island’s whisky giants –  Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg – all famous for that Islay peaty taste.

Laphroaig has a great visitor centre and peat kilns and Ardbeg, a well-regarded cafe.

The distilleries can be reached on foot via the Three Distilleries Pathway – a 3-mile walk connected by the local bus to get you back.

The Bruichladdich distillery sits on the shore of Loch Indaal by Port Charlotte and is one of the island’s most modern and innovative distillers. Bruichladdich make the world’s peatiest whisky – the incredibly smokey Octomore.

Port Askaig has two distilleries – Bunnahabhain and Caol Ila which both sit on the Sound of Islay and have wonderful views across the water to the Isle of Jura.

Bunnahabhain is the most remote distillery on the Island and produces a whisky quite unlike the rest of the island – their 18-year-old sherry cask non-peated whisky is my favourite whisky if you ever see me in the pub.

The Bowmore Distillery is Islay’s oldest licensed distillery is located in the centre of the town and has a lovely tasting room with views across the loch. Look out for their Port Cask from 1989 – it is delicious!  

The island’s smallest distillery – Kilchoman Distillery is a tiny farm distillery and only distillery which doesn’t sit on the Islay coast.

Islay’s newest distillery – Ardnahoe – has just opened its doors and begun production at Port Askaig. The distillery has tasting rooms and a cafe, along with tours. However, you will need to wait three years to taste their whisky!

Where to stay on islay

Islay has a total population of just over 3000 people, so the island’s main settlements have a local, village feel.

The main towns on Islay are Bowmore and Port Ellen, with smaller villages at Port Charlotte and Portnahaven.

Where to eat on Islay

• The Peatzeria serves fabulous pizzas and Italian food in Bowmore.
• The Bowmore Hotel serves pub grub and a huge whisky selection and a warm welcome from staff and locals alike.  
• The Lochside Hotel has a stylish bar, serves classic Scottish dishes and has a conservatory perfect for spotting otters and dolphins in the bay.
• The An Tigh Seinnse in Portnahaven serves seafood platters (order in advance) and is characterful with a real fire.  
• The Port Charlotte Hotel serves up excellent chowder, real ales, and on a Wednesday evening, live traditional music.
• The Port Askaig Hotel is the oldest inn on the island and has its original interior. Seafood platters are served from the scallop, crab and lobster boats which dock right in Port Askaig’s Bay. Look out for the owner’s wee white dugs which greet each and every ferry arriving with much enthusiasm!
• The Islay Hotel in Port Ellen and serves modern Scottish food in its restaurant and whisky bar.

More reasons to visit Islay

• Take a day trip to Jura – catch the ferry from Port Askaig on Islay to Feolin on Jura and explore this lovely remote island home to 180 people, 5000 deer and one whisky distillery – and the impressive Paps of Jura.
• The Islay whisky festival – the Islay Festival of Music and Malt or ‘Fèis Ìle’ usually takes place the last week of May each year and includes traditional music, ceilidhs and whisky tasting.
• The Islay walking festival – Walk Islay is a week-long walking festival which takes place in April across Islay, Jura and Colonsay.  
• To visit the new distilleries – Ardnahoe Distillery opens in 2019 and Port Ellen will start distilling in 2020. Three more distilleries are also in the pipeline!  

Whisky, waving, wildlife, and walking – the Isle of Islay offers up a truly unique Scottish island experience.

Add in the incredibly warm welcome from the locals and you’ll quickly be working out how to miss your ferry back to the mainland. Islay – you stole our hearts.

Love from Scotland x

• Looking for more Scottish islands to visit? 
• Read more: things to do in Argyll and Bute.